1.Levels (Ctrl + L):
to improve the tonal balance image, drag the slider histogram (input levels) at the end of the left / right (black / white point) there is a gap morbidly SHG (positioned at the point at which early began to climb / decline histogram), when the image looks less bright, move the slider middle (mid-point) to the left (usually just between 1.20 to 1.40). For those who are used, Curves (Ctrl + M) will be considered more powerful by the same function.
Auto Levels can be used, if we feel quite satisfied with the results, though ill always successful.
Auto Color can be used to correct the color, if we use it, no longer setting Levels, Auto Color krn on, but do color correction, as well as well as improved level;
if not satisfied, it can be done with the Color Balance and / or Hue / Saturation.
2.Burn / Dodge Tool:
To fix "the" image is too bright / dark, do it when necessary.
3.Healing Brush / Clone Stamp Tool:
To "patch up" the image defects or unwanted part with another similar image.
Healing Brush suitable when the original texture to be maintained (eg, acne facial);
Clone Stamp will be "plagiarized" just like the original.
example retouching image |
4.Blur / Sharpen Tool:
To blur / sharpen "the" image,
Blur Tool is often used to "hide" the image that is considered annoying (eg kerutan2 obscures the face), on the contrary Sharpen Tool used to sharpen the image less sharp.
5.Crop Tool:
Used to mengcropping well as resize the image according to the size format printing, here we can also improve framming photos like what is done with the Rectangular Marquee Tool (selection), with a record length ratio - width is predetermined, or fix the point of view (perspective), particularly useful in shooting with wide angle lens (wide angle lens), which is more apt to occur barrel distorsion (especially at the edges of the frame, for architectural objects).
Fill out the length / width in accordance with the print size we want (in cm or inch), do not forget to fill the resolution in accordance with a resolution printing, the current minilab photo printing resolution is 300 ppi.
Do not forget, we must adjust our image resolution with a printed size (resolution of 300 ppi), so that optimal print results, as if imposed by a low resolution image, printed in large measure, the result will not be optimal, although automatically when resizing, do interpolation ( increase the number of pixels), but the detail, color information, etc.. not increased, so the result is the image with low detail, less sharp, more noise / artefact. So that the end result is optimal, try the original image is quite good with a resolution high enough, according to the printed size; maximum permissible interpolation of 1.5 to 2.0 times, make sure the Bicubic method we choose for best results; if we want better results better, especially for large size prints, can use Photoshop plug-in (optional) by the method of "Fractal".
Examples of digital images with a max size of print (at a resolution of 300 ppi) WITHOUT interpolation:
1600 x 1200 (2 MP): 4R
2048 x 1536 (3 MP): 5R dst.nya.
6.Unsharp Mask (USM):
These filters including sharpen filter, the excess we can set the parameters as needed, perform the last step, or every once to resize the image, which is generally an image into a more soft (less sharp).
For printing purposes:
Amount: 100-200% to increase the contrast of pixels, generally quite 150%.
Radius: 1-2 pixels
to determine the number of pixels around the edge pixels are sharpened, to be exact: the value of the print resolution with the number 200, for example: a print resolution of 300 ppi, then 300/200 = 1.5 pixels.
Threshold: 2-20 pixels
to determine how sharp the pixels of the surrounding area. Generally sufficient for about 15 pixels, the value is too small, will make the noise / excessive artefact.
One thing to remember, the USM on the mold, NOT as dramatic as seen on the monitor (enlarged 100%).
If you want to see the "preview" printout, show with hand tools: print size, just to be safe zoom-in 40-50%, krn usually prints a more detailed / sharper than the zoom of 24%.
NB:We do not need to feel "guilty" by doing retouch digital images that we get with a digital camera, because it is samapun done during the process of printing on photo lab prints on film (analog cameras), what we get, is already "so ", the difference is, with" digital dark room ", we are much easier to do it (alone, or by a photo lab operator).
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